Heritage mechanical watchmaking across distinct design expressions
How to Explore Shanghai Watches
Shanghai Watches is one of China’s earliest mechanical watchmakers, and spans a wide range of expressions - from military tool watches to sculptural, design-led pieces. Explore the collections below based on how you wear and what you value.
Browse by Design Approach
Modern & Balanced Clean, modern designs with practical complications → Pioneer
Tool & Military Tool watches rooted in Shanghai’s military history → Commander
Refined & Minimal Texture-focused pieces centred on finishing and detail → Magnolia, Visionary
The Shanghai Watch Commander Dive 39mm is built as a compact, functional dive watch designed for everyday reliability.
It combines a robust case with a clean, legible layout, keeping the focus on usability.
Inspiration & Cultural Design
The Commander series traces its origins to the 1960s, when the Shanghai Watch Factory developed the 114 Series - China’s first self-designed military automatic diving watch.
Built for the People’s Liberation Army, it was engineered for durability, with shock resistance, anti-magnetism, and water resistance up to 200 meters. Issued to division-level commanders, it became associated with leadership and reliability in demanding conditions.
The modern Commander Diver draws from this foundation, retaining the utilitarian design language while updating performance to meet contemporary standards, including increased water resistance.
The result is a watch that balances historical reference with practical functionality.
Dial & Case Details
The gray dial offers a more understated alternative, using tone rather than contrast to create visual interest.
It keeps the watch versatile while maintaining strong readability.
Markers and hands are designed for clear visibility, supporting the watch’s tool-oriented purpose.
The 39mm case keeps the watch compact while maintaining the presence expected of a dive watch.
A unidirectional bezel supports timing functionality, while a sapphire crystal protects the dial.
Movement & Mechanics
Powered by an automatic mechanical movement, the watch delivers dependable performance for daily and active use.
The focus remains on reliability and consistency under regular wear.
Strap & Wearability
The watch comes with three strap options - a metal bracelet, leather strap, and NATO strap - allowing it to adapt across different uses and settings.
This flexibility lets the watch shift easily between a more robust, tool-oriented feel and a lighter, more casual configuration.
Despite its functional design, the 39mm case remains comfortable on the wrist, making it suitable for extended wear across both daily and active use.
Final Impression
This is the most restrained version, suited for those who prefer a more neutral, everyday look within a dive watch format.
Explore Other Variants
Shanghai Watch Commander Dive 39mm - Black Dial
Shanghai Watch Commander Dive 39mm - Green Dial
Technical Specifications
Case size:
39mm
Case material:
316L stainless steel
Case back:
316L stainless steel
Movement type:
Automatic
Movement no.:
ST2130
Power reserve:
Approx 42hrs
Dial:
Sandblasted dial with a matte, fine-grain texture is meticulously engraved with the “Two Bars, Three Stars” insignia - a proud military symbol, reviving the heritage of rank and honor
Glass:
Sapphire crystal
Water resistance:
30ATM
Strap type:
1 bracelet, 2 straps
Strap material:
Stainless steel metal bracelet, leather strap and NATO strap
Buckle:
Stainless steel
Warranty:
2 years
The Shanghai Watch Auspicious Steeds Starry Dial Limited Edition offers a more restrained interpretation of the series, combining sculptural relief work with a darker, more controlled dial.
It retains the symbolic narrative while shifting the overall tone toward something quieter and more versatile.
Inspiration & Design
The “Auspicious Steeds” motif draws from traditional Chinese symbolism, where the horse represents strength, momentum, and progress.
In this version, the composition is set against a starry-textured dial, evoking a night-sky backdrop. This creates a different visual dynamic - one that emphasises contrast and depth rather than colour intensity.
The result is a design that feels more atmospheric, with the motif emerging gradually depending on light.
Dial & Case Details
The aventurine dial creates a deep night-sky effect, with mineral flecks sparkling like distant constellations. Under shifting light, the surface reveals subtle movement - like a miniature galaxy captured beneath sapphire crystal.
At its centre rises the hand-sculpted 18K gold horse, carved in relief with flowing mane and powerful stance. The gold engraving contrasts dramatically against the dark celestial backdrop, creating visual depth and dimensional tension.
The 40mm case is crafted from 316L stainless steel and finished in warm PVD gold, balancing durability with refined presence. The metallic tone harmonises naturally with the gold relief while remaining suitable for everyday wear.
Movement & Mechanics
Powering the Starry Dial edition is the self-winding ST812 automatic movement, offering dependable accuracy and approximately 42 hours of power reserve.
The transparent sapphire caseback reveals a decorated movement finished with traditional fish-scale engraving - a classical mechanical detail that complements the watch’s celestial theme.
Beneath the cosmic surface lies steady, disciplined engineering.
Strap & Wearability
Thoughtful proportions and a curved case profile ensure comfortable daily wear despite the dial’s sculptural depth. The balanced 40mm size provides presence without excess, making the watch suitable for both formal occasions and expressive everyday styling.
The gold-toned architecture adds warmth, while the aventurine dial introduces a subtle, captivating glow that never feels overpowering.
Final Impression
The Shanghai Auspicious Steeds Starry Dial transforms symbolism into atmosphere. By pairing 18K gold relief engraving with aventurine’s cosmic shimmer, it offers a poetic yet grounded expression of ambition.
Limited, sculptural, and mechanically sound - a watch that carries success written across the stars.
Technical Specifications
Limited edition:
Only 999 pieces available worldwide
Case size:
40mm
Case material:
316L stainless steel, gold PVD
Case back:
Sapphire, exhibition caseback
Movement type:
Automatic
Movement no.:
1812
Power reserve:
Approx 42hrs
Dial:
Aventurine dial with 18K gold hand-sculpted galloping horse, gold hands
Glass:
Sapphire crystal
Water resistance:
5ATM
Strap type:
Strap
Strap material:
Black calf leather
Buckle:
Stainless steel, gold PVD
Warranty:
2 years
The Shanghai Watch Pioneer Moonphase Salmon Edition brings a softer, more expressive tone to the brand’s contemporary dress watch line.
It combines a clean, modern layout with a traditional moonphase complication, anchored by a salmon dial that adds depth without excess.
Inspiration & Design
The Pioneer series reflects Shanghai Watch’s shift toward a more refined, contemporary design language while staying grounded in its mechanical roots.
This edition introduces a salmon dial - a colour historically associated with higher-end watchmaking - used here in a restrained way to complement the watch’s balanced, architectural layout.
Dial & Case Details
The salmon dial is the defining feature, offering subtle tonal variation depending on lighting conditions.
The moonphase display is integrated cleanly into the dial, maintaining symmetry and avoiding visual clutter.
Markers and printing are kept precise and minimal, allowing the colour and complication to carry the design.
The 39mm case is proportioned for versatility, sitting comfortably between traditional dress sizing and modern preferences.
Movement & Mechanics
Powered by an automatic mechanical movement with moonphase complication, the watch focuses on practical reliability.
The inclusion of a moonphase adds functional interest while remaining easy to live with as a daily mechanical watch.
Strap & Wearability
The watch is paired with a leather strap that complements the warmth of the dial.
Its moderate case size and balanced proportions make it suitable for extended wear across both casual and formal settings.
Final Impression
This is where Shanghai Watch becomes more interesting.
The Pioneer line already offers a cleaner, more contemporary base — and the salmon dial pushes it further into collector territory without losing restraint.
Technical Specifications
Case size:
39mm
Case material:
316L stainless steel
Case back:
Stainless steel
Movement type:
Automatic
Movement no.:
Seagull 1818
Power reserve:
Approx 40hrs
Dial:
Salmon with silver hands, indices and numerals; moonphase display
Glass:
Sapphire crystal
Water resistance:
5ATM
Strap type:
Strap
Strap material:
Black calf leather
Buckle:
Stainless steel
Warranty:
2 years
Shanghai Watches offers a different perspective on mechanical watchmaking — combining historical roots with a wide range of design approaches, from functional to expressive.
A Broader Approach to Watch Design
Rather than following a single design language, Shanghai Watches spans multiple directions — allowing each collection to express a distinct identity while remaining grounded in mechanical tradition.
For Different Types of Collectors
Whether you’re drawn to tool watches, refined dress pieces, or more expressive designs, Shanghai Watches offers options across multiple styles and use cases.
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